How to Determine Auto Repair Labor Costs

Have you ever wondered how a shop determines how much labor to charge for a repair? Most service centers use a book, or computer software called a labor guide. This book lists practically every repair, for almost every car. This guide lists how long a specific repair should take for any make and model car, which allows a shop to estimate the labor charge before a hob is started. The guide gives the labor in time, not in dollars. The service center must multiply the hourly rate by the number of hours listed in the guide. For example, if a labor guide shows the number of hours it takes to rebuild a transmission, the service center would multiply its rate per hour by the number of hours to complete the job. Some shops consider their own experience when estimating the time for a specific repair. Look for a shop that specializes in the car or specific type of repair you need. If the repair you require is the shops specialty, the time it takes to complete the job can be cut in half.

If you are in a Denver auto repair shop for a repair and you suspect that you are being overcharged for the labor, try calling several other shops to ask them for an estimate on the amount of time they have listed in their labor guide. Most service centers will be glad to help you because they have a chance of getting a new customer. Ask them for the amount of time for the repair you need and the name of the labor guide they are using. If the labor price you are being charged does not agree with the labor guide, stop the repair before it starts and ask the service manager how he determined the labor price. If he cannot offer a good explanation, get out of there.You are the one in control. Make sure to get the repairs you want and nothing more.

Repairing Vehicle Axles

The best way to replace a bad outer joint is to replace the entire axle on that side. This was not always the case, however. When FWD vehicles first came out, new axles were very expensive, sometimes over $500 each! At that time, it was cheaper to replace just the damaged CV joint and boot. Now it is actually less expensive to buy just the CV joint. When an old axle is re-manufactured the worn or damaged parts are re-machined or replaced and the axle will be as good as new, or better. There is another advantage: These axles not only have re-manufactured outer joints, but the inner joints will be as well, and new boots, grease, and clamps already installed. Replacing the entire axle, as opposed to replacing only the joint and boot, is almost always less expensive and less prone to giving you or your mechanic trouble. Furthermore, the Denver mechanic labor to replace the entire axle should e a little less than replacing the joint and boot, usually around $50 per axle. Today, re-manufactured axles cost from $75 to over $150 each for most common car models. You will usually need to replace only one axle at a time. It is not uncommon for a car to need an axle on one side but not the other. When shopping for a axle service center to replace the axle, make sure to compare the warranties.

So far, the outer joint has been the topic of discussion, because they are far more likely to go bad. Inner CV joints are not subjected to the same intense twisting and movement as outer joints, so they don't wear out as often-- but they can go bad. The symptoms for a bad inner joint are much different from the popping that an outer joint makes. In fact, a bad inner joint will not typically cause any strange noises. A bad inner joint will instead cause the car to shake and wobble back and forth, mostly when you are speeding up from a complete stop. This wobble which makes the whole car to move left and right, can be very severe while pressing the gas pedal and will then smooth out when the pedal is released. This condition can also come and go. It may happen once in every ten starts, or it may occur every time you start the car. This type of wobble or shimmy is almost always caused by a bad inner CV joint and should not be confused with a bad tire. Many new tires have been purchased to correct a vibration caused by an axle. A bad tire causes the car to shake whether the gas pedal is being pressed or not.

When to Have Your Brake Pads Inspected

Brake shoes are similar to brake pads and are designed to wear out. They are pressed against the inside of the brake drums to stop the car. Shoes are used only with drum brakes and are found only on the rear of modern cars. Many cars do not use drum brakes at all; these cars have disk brakes on the front and the rear. There are two brake shoes per rear wheel.

Any time the tires are off the car or whenever you hear or feel anything strange from your brakes, your brakes should be inspected. The best time is when you are having the tires rotated, which should be about every 5-7 thousand miles. This relatively short interval almost always allows you to catch the pads before they wear out completely. Even if the shop that does your tire rotation does not repair brakes, someone there can probably tell you approximately how much life is left on them. Simply ask them to look at your brakes while the wheels are off. Most cars can be checked with almost no effort if the tires are already off, so many shops will not change for such a check.

Warning Signs
Many cars and trucks have a built -in warning system that alerts you about worn brake pads- a device called a warning sensor. The appropriate slang term is "squealer." This squealer makes a high-pitched squeak when the brake pads are about 80-90% worn. The warning sensor is a small metal finger that gets closer and closer to the rotor as the brake pads wear thin. When the brake pads are worn out, this finger begins to scrape the rotor as the car rolls. This causes an annoying squeak which is similar to that of fingers on a chalkboard. A warning sensor squeal will usually stop when you apply your brakes. The squealer will not damage the rotor but it may sound like it is. When the squeak begins, Denver mechanic pros suggest you need to get new brake pads right away.